A Seller’s Market for Bicycles


As I write this post, I just sold my fourth bicycle on Facebook Market Place. Actually, only one of the four was mine. Two were sold for a friend, one was Debby’s first road bike, and the last bike was my gravel bike I picked up at the going out of business sale at the local Performance Bicycle store. 

Sad, to see Performance go, but just like Wolf Camera who was up to their eyeballs in debt to camera manufacturers, Performance Bike did the same with the parent of Fuji bicycles to the point that, on paper, it looked better if the ASE folks bought Performance for debt owed. But, between the 2008 financial crash and a dying bicycle market in the “20 teens”, the only option was bankruptcy and the end of a once great local mail order startup of the 80’s. Fast forward to 2020 and lockdown, and everyone wants something fun to do that doesn’t cost a lot of money and gets them out of their house. The once forlorn toy of toddlers to teens has made quite the come back beyond the regulars made up of commuters, triathletes and fitness riders. For myself, I fall in the latter category as I ride to release stress and to control my type 2 diabetes. Since the start of covid-19 lockdown, I have tried to average about 60 miles a week on the road or greenways and lost a couple more inches off of my waist. For my 58th birthday, I wanted to do a 100K, but a covid-19 exposure meant self isolating for 10 days to be on the safe side and the timing has not worked out for a three or four hour ride since. But I suspect I will get one in before the weather cools off too much for my liking. So, if you have a bike that is in good shape and ridable, ride it! If you don’t think riding a bike is your thing, clean it up and put it on Market Place. Other than the two higher end carbon bikes I sold, the medium to lower priced bikes went within a day and people who wanted the first one I posted were trying to give me more money than I wanted to take both lower priced bikes. But, I respected the order in which I received the inquiries on the bikes as I wanted to reward speediness on responses. I am glad I did, as I suspect the first buyer was simply going to re-sell them after a some minor updates. Other than Pabl buying the Novara Strada, the Fuji Finest 2.0 went to April who I have since found out volunteers as a buddy for the Miracle League Baseball games where my nephew Quinn has played for many years. The high end Specialized Ruby Comp wasn’t a good fit for Casey, who lives near SouthPoint and the ATT, but a freshly minted 2nd Lt. from Fort Bragg came up and bought it after a quick test ride. I hope her twice rebuilt A1C strengthens up on the bike. My Mekk Pave XR 2.6 gravel bike, that I never could get to fit me, went to Mr. Garcia who travels the east coast from Florida to these parts (Research Triangle, NC, USA) where his sons live to buy bikes for himself or sell back home in Dade City Florida where he says the market to sell bikes is better than here.

So, don’t hold on to your bikes if you are not going to ride them. The local bike shops can’t keep inventory and if they have something, it may be really high end as my VP found out when trying to find some mountain bikes for he and his kids and their vacation trip to Colorado. If I was 15, I would have said, wait a year and put the money into a car, but that’s me. I have one more bike I am tuning up and will most likely keep. That’s my Mongoose Pro 2007 Otero MTB. I have not ridden it since I broke my left wrist on it in 2012. When I lowered it from the garage ceiling today, I had no rear brake and trying to refill and flush the hydraulic brake lines ruined my pads, so off to the store to get some new ones tomorrow. I know my neighbors will be happy as trying to re-seat the cleaned pads sounded worse than fingernails on a chalk board.

Gravel Bike 2017 Mekk Pave XR 2.6 (PerformanceBike Going Out Of Business Sale – Nashbar Photo Sample)

Unable to easily locate specifications, but did locate a marketing write-up…

Mekk Pave X 2.6 Gravel Bike. If pushing the limits on both asphalt and gravel – within the same ride – is how you prefer to spend your time in the saddle then the Mekk Pave X 2.6 Gravel Bike makes an exemplary choice to explore the roads less travelled. The disc brake-specific frame is constructed of a high modulus Toray T800 EPS carbon fiber and paired with a with a full carbon 1-1/8 to 1.5 tapered, disc brake-specific fork that are not only light but are plenty strong and deliver an exceptional ride quality. Stiffness abounds courtesy of the stout, oversized downtube and BB86 bottom bracket shell while slender chain stays help smooth out rougher terrain. To complement this exemplary carbon fiber frameset, Mekk has spec’d the Pave X 2.6 with the ever reliable 11-speed Shimano 105 components for the crankset, derailleurs, and cassette while braking duties are handled by the superb Shimano RS685 hydraulic disc brakes. The 2×11 speed shift/brake levers are Shimano RS685 – designed to offer renowned Shimano shift quality as well as handle a hydraulic disc brake set up. The 11-speed 105 crankset features 50/34T compact chainrings and Shimano’s four-arm design which reduces weight without sacrificing one iota of strength and stiffness. The bolt circle diameter is identical for compact as well as standard size chainrings meaning one set of crank arms can do it all – just swap out chainrings to mix things up while keeping the same crankset. The disc brake-specific aluminum wheels are Mekk’s own Saturae Galaxy XC featuring 140mm rotors front and rear as well as 24 spokes front and rear to better handle the demands of disc braking. Marquee brand names are smartly spec’d with the tires – the workhorse Continental Ultra Sport II in a 700x28c size – as well as the saddle – classic Italian craftsmanship and quality in the San Marco ERA Startup Power. Mekk is the brainchild of Mark Edwards (ME) and Ken Knight (KK), a pair of Brits with extensive experience in high-performance cycling in both the racing and production realms. – $2,199.99

This was a really nice bike for the money I paid, but I could never get the fit quite right as I was a little stretched out on the reach and the stand over could have put me in the soprano section if I wasn’t careful. Sold on Facebook Market Place in August 2020.

Bike Brands and Conglomerates That Own Them

The list below was quickly assembled from Google and sourced back to the respective company website, but it should not be considered an exhaustive list.  I decided to put this list together to look at the bicycle market and how it seems like there are fewer choices in today’s market.  There is also the proposed tariffs here in the U.S. on the imported bicycles from overseas.  While this Bloomberg report covers that angle pretty well, you have to wonder what it means the American bicycle market.  Will the tariff make it much more expensive to pick up a kid’s BMX bike from a big box store or make the price of the average entry level road bike increase by 25%?  I guess we will have to wait and see on that, but I won’t hold my breath while we wait to see high end mountain or road machines being manufactured here in the U.S. due to the tariffs.

Accell ASI* Dorel Cycleurope Pon
Raleigh Diamondback
Fuji Bikes
SE Bikes
Kestrel Bicycles
Breezer Bikes
Oval Concepts
Phat Cycles
Kid Trax
Charge Bikes
BBB Cycling
Raleigh UK

*Owner of Performance Bike stores

Note: Pon has offered to acquire Accell, which would certainly make the others look at each other as potential buyers, but the tariff situation could make for an interesting outcome for all of them.

So which bike brands are not owned by a conglomerate?

  • Trek
  • Specialized
  • KHS
  • Kona
  • Colnago
  • Pinarello
  • Merida
  • Ok, I give up. Check this Wiki list for another few 100

Shimano Upgrade on ’07 Raleigh Cadent Carbon

The components on my 2007 Raleigh Cadent Carbon, while functional, were getting a little long in the tooth and I was ready to move up to an 11 speed double from the 10 speed triple that came on the bike.  Originally the bike was built with a Shimano drive train by Raleigh with 105 Shifters and Ultegra Derailleurs.  The triple would usually stop shifting to the big ring at least once a year when the cable housing started splaying apart on the shifter end of things.  Luckily I got used to this and had some spare housing to fix when that would happen.  Other than that, the 10 speed triple set up has been very reliable for the last seven years.

I started looking at piecing the new groupset together over the winter and my friend that owns a local bike shop offered me the NikNik discount to get me going on the project, but I did not want to order the parts through him and put him to the trouble swapping out items if something needed to go back that he couldn’t sell in the store.  Being the procrastinator I am when it comes to big decisions, I held off until I came across some Ultegra 11 speed shifters on the clearance table at the local Performance Bike store.  According to the mechanics, the shifters were new and had been installed on a customer’s existing bike, but then the customer decided against the upgrade and returned everything and had the same mechanics remove the stuff they had just installed. The wasted effort of the endeavor was evident in the bike mechanic’s tone as the story was told. So I grabbed these up with no idea where I would come up with the rest of parts.  As I was checking out, one of the managers, Luke, said if you want those, take a look at this and we went back to the clearance table where there was also a FSA Gossamer compact 10/11 speed 170mm crank.  I wasn’t sure if it was my size or not, so I held off until I could check my current crank arm length.  Once at home, what I had thought were 172.5 mm crank arms were actually 170 mm just like the Gossamer crank on the clearance table.  So back to Performance the next morning to grab the cranks.  With two major parts down at a very good discount, it was time to figure out where to buy the other parts.

While talking with my friend at the local bike shop, I asked about Shimano pricing and how it was supposed to be cheaper now that they have limited the number of the distributors and he said he sees the same prices on Wiggle that he gets from Shimano directly.  Sure enough, my price comparisons showed Wiggle generally beats any of the online bike part retailers so I placed an order with Wiggle for derailleurs, cassette, bottom bracket, cables and housings.  I ended up needing a bottom bracket as the Gossamer crank set had a press fit bottom bracket included with it and I needed a 68mm english.  The final pieces for the project were not part of the drive train, but I wanted to upgrade to save some weight.  Those were the fork, stem, and seat post.  I ended up going with an Amazon source for the carbon stem in my size of 100mm 17 degrees, and Bike Nashbar for the full carbon fork and seat post.

Finally, I did want to spend some money with my friend’s local bike shop even though I would only pay cost due to my close relationship with NikNik. Maybe I will blog about NikNik one day.  This final purchase was a new wheelset.  I bought the Mavic Equipe S wheelset based on what was left in my budget and think they will work fine for me and my style of riding.

Once my wife had left for the weekend to kid sit the nephew while her sister did some house hunting in D.C., the bike rebuild started.  I don’t remember what order I did it all in, but eventually I ended up with all of the new parts installed and in need of some tuning and adjustments.  I watched a few YouTube videos, especially on the shifter install and cabling as I have no experience with routing the cables along the handlebar.  It was not too bad to get going once you get the shifters in the lowest or highest setting so the hole for the cable lines up so you can get the end to catch in the right spot.  Cable housing length was a guesstimate, but seems to be working.  The longest and hardest part of the build was the alignment and adjustment of the front derailleur.  I don’t think it would take half as long next time, as I now know that with a compact crank and an 11-32 cassette it’s almost impossible to get the set up to be completely silent.  The rear derailleur was easy compared to the front, but it was the one that needs some adjusting after the first ride.

One issue I did hit while doing the rebuild was trying to get the crank spindle installed into the new bottom bracket.  I was pretty much convinced that I bought the wrong bottom bracket or the crankset was not compatible with the bottom bracket.  Finally a timely YouTube search lead me to a Park tools video that explained it could take a couple of hits with a rubber mallet to get the spindle through the bottom bracket.  A couple of whacks with the mallet and the crankset was installed.

Some other items I spent a little time researching before installing them were the cutting of the fork steerer and determining chain length.  YouTube was helpful and remembering I had bought a tube cutting guide a few years ago made it a lot easier to get a straight cut.  I did not wrap the steerer with tape where I planned to cut.  I just used a mini hacksaw and went slow and steady rotating the fork and trying to make as much of the cut to the outside of the steerer tube.  There was not any fraying of the carbon on the last cut from the inside to outside of the tube and I ran a sharpening stone (I couldn’t find my file) over the top of the steerer to smooth out everything before installing it.  The biggest pain with the fork was getting the crown race off the old fork and getting it installed on the new fork.  I was able to get it installed, but it was really tight on the new fork.  To determine the chain length, I used a video that walks you through using a little piece of coat hangar to hold the chain together while you adjust the chain manually from the smallest sprocket and small chain ring to check the rear derailleur tension.  Then repeat the process with large chain ring and largest sprocket.  I ended up cutting off about 6 links before installing the link pin.

By the time I finished everything on Saturday afternoon it was in the 90’s outside and I was mentally beat.  So I delayed a ride until I had some rest and cooler temps and that was this morning at 6am.  I took the bike out and did my normal route from my house to edge of Lake Jordan, which is 30 miles round trip.  When I got on the bike, front and rear shifting were working fine; but a couple of miles into the trip the rear derailleur did not want to go down to the 11 speed sprocket and there was some chain chatter in the smaller cogs.  Pulling on the rear derailleur cable let me know that tightening the tension on the cable should make that stop and it did, but it did not address the shifting into the 11 tooth cog problem.  What I think has happened is either the cable stretched or the set screw for the outermost position wasn’t quite right, but I am leaning toward another theory that when I wrapped the handle bars I had already made my adjustments and wrapping the cable housing on the handle bar may have resulted in adding some tension to the cable.  I also wrapped the bars too close to the stem which puts more tension on the cables, so I will cut that back and then adjust the set screw and see what I get.

Overall, the ride was great.  Being on the road between 6 and 8 am on Sunday was quite different from my normal ride times of weekdays between 6 and 8 pm.  The front derailleur shifted smoothly and looked like it was going to let the chain fall off onto the crank arm a couple of times, but never did so I think I need to tweak that set screw as well.  The wheelset is pretty quite and rolls well.  While I took meticulous measurements and tried to match all of the new parts so they were measuring the same, I may have missed something on the handlebar and shifter set up as I did get a little numbness in my hands on the ride and come to think of it I did the shifters and handlebar angle by eye and never did measure like I did on the seat and seat post re-install. Update: Measurement of the shifter hoods showed I was off my about 4cm to the high side and I was able to adjust the angle of the handlebars to get the new hoods within a few mm of the old measurement.

At this point I am very happy with being able to do the upgrade and stay around a $1,000 budget including the wheelset.  Would I try to tackle doing the tear down and rebuild on my own next time?  It’s hard to say, but I am glad I did and have that experience now.  There were times when I was so frustrated and tired that I made stupid mistakes like cutting cable housing to length while I had the new cable inside of it.  DOH!  And who knew a front derailleur could be such a pain in the butt.  If you remember the original Star Trek movie and Khan goes into battle with Kirk and Khan forgets to think in three dimensions and is easily dispatched by Kirk.  I think the front derailleur is the same.  You have height, angle and depth.  If any of those are off, then it’s not going to work correctly.  See the bottom of this post for some photos.  Here are parts and prices and weight information.

Parts/Price List and Sourcing:

Part Description Cost Source/Link
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-R60 Ultegra 6800/105 5800 Hollowtech ii Black/Grey English Thread  $16.99 Wiggle
Crankset FSA Gossamer Crankset 34-50 CK-C6028  $83.00* Performance Bicycle
Chain Shimano Ultegra 6800 / XT M8000 11 Speed Chain Silver 11 Speed  $39.01 Wiggle
Front Derailleur Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-Speed Braze on Front Derailleur Grey/Black 11 Speed  $27.99 Wiggle
Read Derailleur Shimano Ultegra 6800 Rear Derailleur Black/Grey GS Medium 32T Max  $51.99 Wiggle
Cassette Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-Speed Cassette Silver Grey 11-32T  $49.99 Wiggle
Brake Cable Set Shimano Road Brake Cable Set  $6.99 Wiggle
Shifter Cable Set LifeLine Performance Gear Cable Set – Shimano/Sram Black One Size  $13.24 Wiggle
Shifters Ultegra 6800 11 Speed  $175.00* Performance Bicycle
Fork Nashbar Full Carbon Road  $128.00 Nashbar
Stem RXL SL 3K Amazon  $42.00 Amazon
Seatpost Nashbar Carbon  $40.00  Nashbar
Bake Calipers Ultegra 6800 $78  Nashbar
Wheels Mavic Equipe S & Tires  $357.44  LBS
  Total w/o Wheels  $752.20  
  Total w/Wheels  $1,109.64

*- Performance Bicycle Clearance Table Items (new condition and warranty)

For those interested in weights, here is a breakdown as best I can using either the specifications from the manufacturer or actually weighing the component.

Part Old New Old Weight New Weight Diff Grams
Bottom Bracket Truvativ GXP BB Ultegra 6800 106 76 -30
Crankset Truvativ Elita Crankset FSA Gossamer CK-C6028 compact 1095 770 -325
Chain Shimano 10s Shimano KCNHG900 11 speed
Front Derailleur Ultegra ’07 Triple FD-6800 11 Speed 113 87 -26
Read Derailleur Ultegra ’07 10s RD-6800 Medium Long Cage 32 max 218 210 -8
Cassette 105 12-27 10 Speed Ultegra 11-32 11 Speed 265 283 18
Brake Cable Set JagWire Shimano Road Brake Cable Set
Shifter Cable Set Clarks Shimano Road Shifter Cable Set
Shifters 105 ’07 10sp/Trip. Ultregra 6800 11 Speed 500 447 -53
Fork Raleigh Carbon Alloy Steerer Nashbar Full Carbon Road 715 367 -348
Stem Eleven81 100mm 17 degrees RXL SL 3K Amazon 49 39 -10
Seatpost Raleigh Carbon Nashbar Carbon 306 241 -65
Brakes Generic Road BR-6800 343 335 -8
Wheels Forte Apollo Mavic Equipe S 1650 1690 40
Total 5360 4545 -815

DSC_0460 DSC_0464 DSC_0465 DSC_0466 DSC_0468 DSC_0469 DSC_0471 DSC_0472


If bad luck runs in three’s, I hope I am done with BL for a while.  So I backup my OS drive on my photo processing workstation and tell Acronis TrueImage to shutdown the computer when complete.  Well, that shutdown was permanent, it would seem, as the motherboard on the system will not even reach POST.  So a capacitor has probably gone bad, but I can’t complain about the Gateway refurb that I picked up on the cheap almost five years ago.   And now I get to build a new system and get to include my niece when I build it to see if she has any interest in future geekdom.  The second incident is appropriately a two-fer.  I went to load the bike on the rack to meet a friend to ride with Debby and noticed a rear flat.  No big deal I have a spare tube and can replace it once we get to the meet up location.  Replacing the tube went okay and while I was getting ready I reached over Debby while she was bent over and my elbow caught the best of her pointy little helmet and I almost fell as she stood up, but in the process I knocked my bike over trying to catch my balance.  No big deal, I tell them to go on I will catch up as I was not in the best of moods at this point.  Finally ready, I start off and all is okay until I take the first hill.  Going in to easy gear the chain goes over the top of the cassette into the spokes.  Luckily I un-clipped before the drive train completely locked up.  Got it working enough to ride the 1/4 mile back to the car and rigged a spare tire and my belt to a tree limb for a temporary work stand.  Made some adjustments and thought all was well and started off again.  All was well for the first six miles when I met Debby and her friend on the way back in.  So I turned around caught and passed them and then the trouble with the rear derailleur started again.  I was so frustrated by this point my bike may as well have been a punching bag.  Too frustrated to deal with it again, Debby went to get the car.  Sadly I was not a nice person to be around from that point on.  Then to top things off, the third incident of BL was when I am supposed to photograph the executives at my work. I set up my office as a temporary studio and the first couple of test shots went well.  Lighting and contrast are looking decent with the US and NC flags as the backdrop; then the camera reports “Err”.  I am like, can it get any worse?  I swap lenses, reset the camera, totally reset all the settings, pull the battery and nothing seems to help.  Luckily with the newer complicated cameras I have seen the light and keep the manual with me.  I looked up the meaning “Err” in the manual and what it basically said was if you get this message a lot have the camera checked out by service personnel, but tripping the shutter should overcome the error condition.  Shutter tripped, error goes away.  Now if all my other troubles could do the same with just the click of a shutter release.

Fitness 2.0

Three years ago, January 2009, I was in the midst of a fitness renaissance. I was working out with a personal trainer (PT) a couple of times a week and I eventually lost close to 30 pounds. My doctor took me off of one diabetes medication and my hemoglobin A1C levels were well below what is considered diabetic or pre-diabetic.  After about nine months of working with my PT, he left the gym to focus on his full-time job, a physician’s assistant in the cardiology department at a local hospital, and his new home. I tried to stick with cycling and use the group fitness classes to keep my fitness program going, but schedules and an overcrowded gym made it easy for me to find excuses not to go and I ended up relying solely on cycling.  That worked for a while, but a year ago this week I fell while mountain biking and fractured my left wrist to the point of needing a plate and nine screws to fix it.  I ended up only getting 560 miles in on the bike in 2012 after riding 1,200+ in 2011, which matched my mileage in 2009 while 2010 was only 800 miles.

Fortunately, the lack of exercise and fitness and the extra pounds I am carrying has not impacted my body in the form of eye, circulatory, or heart problems usually associated with long-term diabetes. I was first diagnosed in 1992 at age 30.  A recent stress test found no issues and my yearly eye exams show no signs of diabetic implications. So I consider that I have been given a second chance to make changes and restart my fitness program.

This year I have not made some strict new year resolution to keep.  It’s January 17th and I have not been to the gym yet, but I have started to watch my portions and take advantage of the convenience protein shakes and I have cut the amount of diet soda with caffeine I have to 16 ounces per day and I am drinking well over 8 glasses of water per day as well.  While I have done this almost two weeks, the weight loss has been minimal and I know it will increase once I can get in some cardio several times a week. This past week I ended up with blister on my heel that kept me out of the gym and from wearing practical shoes in the middle of winter for that matter.

So to keep me honest, here are my stats at the start of the year.  Weight 222.  Blood glucose average in the morning 150.  Now I am at 217 and I am waiting a couple of weeks before starting to track my sugar levels.  If I could only talk myself into riding my bike in the winter. I have started participating the local diabetes support group and we are weighing in each month. So there is more incentive there to get on with the program. So officially my goals this year are “13 in three-quarters” and 1,300 in 2013.  This means I plan to lose 13 pounds in each quarter between now and  the end of the third quarter and ride 1,300 miles this year. Stay tuned to see I how make out.

Naish Glide 12′

Thanks to a combination of the alignment of the stars and some timely contact with Gary Stone at Paddleboard Specialists, Chad Baird at Epic Marketing, and Todd Masinter at Triangle Glides; I picked up a used Naish Glide 12′ standup paddleboard from Todd at Triangle Glides.  I also had some telephone time with local SUP racer Kevin V.  While my wallet and board storage limitations kept me to a 12′ board, it’s probably for the best as I am finding a casual exercise session is more appealing than racing or blowing myself out on a racing board. I think the Glide will be a big move up from the Ocean Kayak Nalu, which is a great beginner board for SUP.

One of things that sold me on the glide was the AST construction that will stand up to a little more abuse than a epoxy only board and a board review by some guys from Italy.  I have been out on the board once since picking it up Tuesday night.  I spent more time finding my sweet spot on the board and only did one quick sprint before calling it a night after six miles in about two hours. Hopefully the weather will hold up for some water time this Saturday morning with my SUP friend Deb Mace and I can comment further on the board’s performance.

Lake Wheeler SUP

I was able to get some time on my Ocean Kayak Nalu at Lake Wheeler today. This was my third time out on the board and first time in the same water with motor boats. Thankfully I did not take a dip, but there were a couple of times that I bent over to get a little help from my arms as the boat waves were coming from the side. When the swells from the boats came from behind, I could see where doing this at the coast could be a real blast given the right conditions. The local company, Triangle Glides, that is starting a SUP rental and lesson business in addition to their Segway tours was supposed to be at the lake for lessons, but I did not see anyone there. I hope they can generate some interest in the sport locally. Wilmington seems to have a decent SUP community at this point with a couple races and some recognition in other paddling events.

As far as the Ocean Kayak Nalu goes, it has been a good board for my needs so far. It is a little heavy, but tracks pretty well as you can see from the GPS data. I put my Garmin Edge bike computer in a dry bag and it seemed to work after I turned off the automatic pause feature. On my first outing with the Nalu this year, I tried sitting and there were two issues. My convertible SUP paddle I bought from Boats To Go (B2G) needs some drip guards. The other issue was my problem with trying to sit and paddle while still needing a lot of work on my core. Hopefully the more I SUP the less of problem that will be.  Speaking of paddles, the Boats To Go convertible paddle was inexpensive and has an option to use the T-Handle or swap it out to make a standard double ended paddle.  I also have the Bic Jungle paddle that I used while trying to SUP using my two old sailboards last year. The Bic blade is a lot stiffer than the B2G paddle blade and has more adjustment on the overall paddle height.  Both of them seem to weigh about the same amount.  The Bic has a smaller diameter than the B2G.  I used the Bic paddle today and will have to give the B2G paddle another try to make a call on which one is better, but my ultimate goal is to get a really nice carbon/fiberglass paddle later on.

Lake Wheeler used to be quick after work water spot back in the 80's when I did a lot of sailboarding. It has some updated facilities and getting the board off of the car and into the water was fairly convenient with two options.  There is a dock for paddlers that sits about 4" above the water.  I used this to launch, but used a little piece of a gravel beach beside it when I came back in and when I relaunched.  The other option is to take the board over to a sandy beach, but it is a little longer walk than the option I took.  This beach also looked like most of the sand had washed away.  The boat launch fee was $6.  This is pretty steep compared to the $2 fee at Lake Crabtree. The other issue here were the boats.  While I could see some folks slowing to cut down on the wake, others were not as considerate.  i also found some people feel invincible on the water and do things they would not normally do, but when I am minding my own business and the guy shoots me the bird to impress his girl, I have to pay them a visit.  Needless to say, his invincibility shrank the closer I got.  But not to let that ruin an otherwise good time, I started time-trialing to a couple buoys to work off the adrenaline. Sadly, I don't think I will be going back to Lake Wheeler unless there is a meetup or some other SUP event there.

Here is the GPS data: